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mezcaleria · $$$

Mezcaleria Alma

More than 120 agave expressions, poured next to Mexico City seafood plates

The second room from Johnny Curiel, the chef behind Alma Fonda Fina, three doors up 15th from Forest Room 5. The agave list runs past 120 bottles, which in Denver puts it at the top, and the food is Mexico City small plates that lean hard on seafood: aguachiles, tostadas, things built to be eaten standing up with a copita in the other hand. It is a small chef-forward space with a visible kitchen and a counter, and it holds the counter seats for walk-ins.

Why go. The deepest agave list on this side of the river, with cooking that keeps up.

Take a counter seat rather than a table, and ask the bartender to pour flights rather than ordering by name.

A short walk from Mezcaleria Alma