Pit Fiend Barbecue

Pit Fiend took over the Larimer Street space that Owlbear Barbecue built, kept part of the team, and kept the discipline: live fire, all-natural wood, no gas assist, and a counter that closes when the meat is gone rather than at a posted hour. The menu borrows from more than one barbecue region instead of picking a lane, which is a defensible position in a city with no barbecue tradition of its own. Parking is street only on a block where street parking is a contact sport, so walk if you can.

Why go. Serious wood-smoked barbecue on a RiNo block where most kitchens are doing something else entirely.

Go before 1pm on a weekend; brisket and ribs sell out well before the doors close.